Thailand Without the Filter
The first hour in Thailand can feel like a strange blend of calm efficiency and humid chaos. After a long-haul flight, you’ll find yourself funnelling into Suvarnabhumi Airport’s sprawling arrival halls—or Don Mueang’s tighter corridors if you flew budget. Both airports function well enough, but Suvarnabhumi has better transport links, more reliable currency exchange counters, and slightly less confusion for newcomers.
After immigration, skip the tempting counters near baggage claim and head to lower-level booths for better exchange rates. Grab a local SIM card (AIS and TrueMove are solid choices) and top it up with just enough data to get through the first few days. You’ll thank yourself when you’re haggling for a Grab ride at 1am or trying to navigate to your hotel with Google Maps after the driver gives up on English entirely.
Taxis in Thailand aren’t lawless, but they can be opportunistic. Don’t just hop in the first car with a green light. Use Grab, Bolt, or in Bangkok, even the metro, which is clean and air-conditioned. If you must take a taxi, insist on the meter or set the price in advance—politely.
Outside the airport bubble, you’ll quickly realise Thailand’s social etiquette is rooted in respect and subtlety. Smiling is the default. It’s not always agreement or friendliness—it can signal discomfort, deflection, even frustration. Don’t mistake politeness for submission. Learn to read context, not just expressions.
Also, lose the habit of putting your feet up. In Thai culture, feet are considered the lowest, dirtiest part of the body. Pointing them at someone, resting them on a chair, or touching things with your toes is not just rude—it’s offensive. The same goes for touching someone’s head, especially a child’s. Keep your hands to yourself unless invited otherwise.
II. The Bangkok Launchpad: 3 Days of Food, Chaos, and Culture (550 words)
Bangkok can knock the wind out of you on day one, but it’s also the best place to shake off jet lag and get a crash course in Thai city life. Where you stay matters. Khao San Road might call to the backpacker in you, but be warned—it’s rowdy, neon-lit, and loud until dawn. Riverside hotels offer a gentler landing, with boat access to temples and a view of golden sunsets. Sukhumvit is the practical middle ground, close to BTS stations, decent food, and shopping.
Start slow. Visit the Grand Palace early before the heat and crowds settle in. It’s dazzling—literally. Dress appropriately: shoulders and knees covered, no see-through clothing. Temples are sacred spaces. Step over thresholds, don’t sit with your feet pointing at Buddha, and observe silence where signs request it.
Street food is everywhere and nearly always safe. Look for stalls with queues. Try pad kra pao, som tam (papaya salad), or mango sticky rice. For the brave, there’s durian—just don’t bring it into your hotel room.
Bangkok’s nightlife is layered. Skip the sleazy bars and head for rooftop spots like Vertigo or Octave. Dress codes apply. Drink slowly—cocktails are strong, and dehydration hits differently in 35°C heat.
Avoid street scams like the “temple closed today” trick or overly friendly strangers recommending jewellery shops. Smile, decline, and walk away. Bargain at markets, but don’t be aggressive. Losing face is a big deal here—yours and theirs.
Always carry small bills. A hundred baht note won’t get you change from a street vendor selling 15-baht skewers. And no one wants to break your 1000 for a tuk-tuk ride that costs 60.
III. Northbound for Nature and Old Kingdoms: Chiang Mai and Pai (550 words)
When Bangkok gets too loud, head north. Chiang Mai is the unofficial capital of slow travel in Thailand. The old city is walled and walkable, packed with over 300 temples. It’s also a hub for digital nomads, cooking classes, and some of the most respected elephant sanctuaries in the country. But choose carefully—avoid any place that lets you ride or bathe elephants. Real sanctuaries don’t allow close contact.
Spend a Sunday night at the Walking Street Market. It stretches for blocks and sells everything from handmade soap to deep-fried crickets. You’ll find local art, cheap clothes, and genuinely tasty food. The prices are good, but the atmosphere is what you’ll remember.
From Chiang Mai, you can take the winding mountain road to Pai—a tiny, hippie town where nobody rushes and everyone rides motorbikes in flip-flops. It’s not big on sightseeing, but that’s the point. Soak in a hot spring, nap in a hammock, eat banana pancakes by the river. Watch the sun go down at Pai Canyon, but don’t climb the cliffs unless you’re confident with heights.
Trains to Chiang Mai are an adventure of their own—overnight sleepers are cheap and oddly charming. Flights are quicker, but you’ll miss the scenery. Just pack for the chill: mornings and nights in the north can dip below 15°C, especially between December and February.
IV. Island Hopping South: Choosing Between the Gulf and the Andaman (600 words)
After the north’s forests and temples, the south offers a different rhythm—sand, snorkels, and salt air. The two coasts cater to different kinds of travellers.
On the Gulf side, Koh Samui has resorts and wellness retreats; Koh Phangan offers both serenity and full-moon madness; Koh Tao draws divers like bees to sugar. If you’re not into all-night parties, avoid Phangan near full moon dates. Outside of that, it’s relaxed and underdeveloped in the best way.
Koh Tao is one of the cheapest places in the world to get scuba certified. The reefs are close to shore, the waters are clear, and the atmosphere feels like a backpacker town from 2003. Be mindful though—protect coral by not touching it, don’t wear sunscreen in the water unless it’s reef-safe, and skip any place offering “sea turtle selfies.”
The Andaman side is a postcard. Think limestone cliffs in Krabi, turquoise bays around Koh Phi Phi, and quiet sunsets on Koh Lanta. Phuket is the biggest, busiest, and most varied island—beach resorts, boxing gyms, golf courses, and plenty of Russian tourists. It’s not everyone’s scene, but it’s well connected and has decent infrastructure.
Avoid taking speedboats when the sea’s rough—they look fun but can get dangerous fast. Stick with ferries or larger boats if you’re prone to motion sickness. Also, don’t feed the monkeys. They remember faces and have no problem stealing your bag later.
On every island, respect local customs. Don’t walk shirtless through towns. Cover up when entering temples, and don’t climb on sacred rocks or pose in bikinis near Buddha statues. This isn’t Bali—Thailand’s beach culture doesn’t override its traditional values.
And yes, restaurant furniture here ranges from beanbags in the sand to polished wood under palm-thatched roofs, but don’t judge a place by its chairs—some of the best curries are served at plastic tables next to mopeds.
V. Street Smarts: What to Watch Out for and What to Absolutely Embrace (500 words)
Thailand rewards curiosity, but it also punishes carelessness. You don’t need to be paranoid, just aware.
Tourist scams are often dressed as kindness. A man who wants to “help” you find a closed temple might actually redirect you to a jewellery shop where his cousin gets a cut. Don’t engage. Just keep walking.
Overpriced tuk-tuk rides? They’re a rite of passage, but don’t pay 400 baht for a 10-minute trip. Use Grab where available or agree on a price before you get in. Some drivers will offer “tours” that end in tailor shops. Politely decline.
Fake travel agencies are another issue. Always double-check online reviews before booking buses, island tours, or visas. If the price seems too low, there’s usually a catch.
What should you absolutely do? Get a Thai massage—from a legit place. Expect to be twisted, pulled, and lightly beaten with elbows. You’ll walk out sore, but two days later, you’ll feel like a new person. Visit night markets and let your nose lead the way. Take local trains at least once. Try som tam from a roadside stall. Order dishes Thai spicy just once, for bragging rights.
Don’t raise your voice. Losing your temper here doesn’t solve anything; it only gets you labelled as rude. Respect the monarchy, even in passing jokes. It’s not just illegal to speak against the royal family—it’s deeply offensive to many Thais.
Must-have apps:
- Grab for taxis
- Google Translate for menus and signs
- Wise or Revolut for transferring money with minimal fees
- Maps.me for offline navigation
VI. Final Tips: Timing, Budget, and Local Wisdom (550 words)
Timing matters. November to February is dry, breezy, and manageable—ideal for first-time visitors. March through May gets scorching, and the April Songkran festival turns the entire country into a water fight. It’s fun unless you’re not expecting it. Then it’s just confusing and wet.
June to October is monsoon season. It doesn’t rain constantly, but when it does, it pours. It’s the low season for a reason—fewer tourists, cheaper rates, but more mosquitoes and ferry cancellations.